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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This morning I got a notification on the car that service is due in 879 miles (5000 miles). UVO app says service is due at 8000 miles and the service department said when I picked the car 7000 miles.
In the Northeast most car manufacturers suggest following an accelerated service schedule because of the weather. I never did in my 14 y/o odyssey and never had any issue. Regardless, the carnival hasn't seen snow so I am not planning to follow that yet.

When will/did you service your car?
Should the first service schedule be accelerated (break-in period)?


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I got a notice at 8,000 miles. I went to two oil change shops and they said they couldn't do the job- Carnival is too new.
 

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My plan is to follow what’s in the manual, which, IIRC maps to the UVO. Are others getting the service light at 5K miles? Also wondering if this is something the dealer can set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My plan is to follow what’s in the manual, which, IIRC maps to the UVO. Are others getting the service light at 5K miles? Also wondering if this is something the dealer can set.
Just called my dealership. They said normally 8000. Since the Carnival uses synthetic oil, in the northeast 7500 miles is adequate to account for sever weather conditions. for comparison - Kias that use non-synthetic oils are required to do it every 5000 miles.

I also confirmed that as I mentioned before on a different thread, my dealership (in MA) charges around $75 for an oil change with synthetic oil.

Am going to look into reseting the service reminder and report back.

Lastly, reading about someone who had an oil change at a dealership that changed the oil but not the filter because they didn't have one for the Carnival (might have been early on when the car just came out), I spoke with the parts manager, who assured me they always keep 10 in stock, but said it is always a good idea to schedule the service in advance. They are short of technicians (seems to be the trend in every industry) and schedule 2-3 weeks out.
 

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Wow! $75 seems steep for something that take 10-15 mins if you have a lift and bulk Synthetic oil.

DIY the oil should run $25-$35 depending on if you can get it on sale at your local big box store. Filter and gasket should be $8 retail.

One of the things I've found is that, at least here in the NE, that changing the cabin filter every oil change is advisable. It seems like every time I pulled that out on our old Subaru it looked like it had been in there 10 years.
 

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When you consider a DIY oil change, please weigh the consequences on possible future warranty claims, both inside and outside the 60K-miles/5-year window.
 

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At least here in the US, DIY maintenance cannot effect warranty claims (or installation of aftermarket parts) as per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. There is numerous case law to back this as well.
 

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I believe they can ask you for documentation of proper maintenance - and the last thing I want to do is to fight (again) with the dealers, the corporate office, etc...If things go south, not sure what they can/will ask as a proof of proper maintenance. I would buy any car that would remove the burden of "negotiating" how much you will lose with a dealer, so let alone having periodic visits to their "shop", but the other option (proving that you are not an elephant and you did your maintenance) is, I believe, not better, if not much worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow! $75 seems steep for something that take 10-15 mins if you have a lift and bulk Synthetic oil.

DIY the oil should run $25-$35 depending on if you can get it on sale at your local big box store. Filter and gasket should be $8 retail.

One of the things I've found is that, at least here in the NE, that changing the cabin filter every oil change is advisable. It seems like every time I pulled that out on our old Subaru it looked like it had been in there 10 years.
I think (or hope) that the $75 includes the recommended service items at 8000 miles with tire rotation and all the list of items to inspect. I was thinking if the DIY route but on top of the $40 for parts/oil I will have to make a trip to the local dump to properly dispose the old oil, I will need to rotate the tires and I will not have a professional mechanic inspect the car as I am not knowledgeable enough to do it myself.
Changing the air filter often is a good (and should be inexpensive DIY) idea!
 

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I think (or hope) that the $75 includes the recommended service items at 8000 miles with tire rotation and all the list of items to inspect. I was thinking if the DIY route but on top of the $40 for parts/oil I will have to make a trip to the local dump to properly dispose the old oil, I will need to rotate the tires and I will not have a professional mechanic inspect the car as I am not knowledgeable enough to do it myself.
Changing the air filter often is a good (and should be inexpensive DIY) idea!
You might check with your local shops. Here in PA, places like Pep Boys and Autozone will freely take used oil for recycling. Autozone also takes used antifreeze.

For tire rotation, you can probably get away with every other oil change. The goal is to not wear down the fronts more than the rears and vice versa (for unidirectional tires). I tend to rotate my tires less frequently than suggested and haven't seen uneven tire wear.

The inspection for me is like this and usually take about 10 mins assuming nothing needs replacing:
  1. Check brake fluid levels
  2. Check radiator fluid levels
  3. Check power steering fluid
  4. Check oil level (sanity check you should do this after the oil has had some time to settle into the engine)
  5. Check windshield washer fluid
  6. Check the engine air filter for abnormal build-up
  7. Check all engine belts for proper tension (2 finger push should equal less than 1" deflection)
  8. Check cracks in the rotors or uneven wear on the pads
  9. Ensure pads have at least 2/32" wear remaining (you don't need a micrometer, if you are having trouble seeing the pads then it's time to order replacements)
  10. Check tires for nails, sidewall damage, and abnormal wear (the latter can indicate an alignment issue)
  11. Check wipers / blades for tears or abnormal wear (I know people that will change wiper blades every oil change)
  12. Check all lights / bulbs
  13. Check for dash lights (CEL, Airbag, oil, temp, etc)
  14. Check air cabin filter (recommend replacing every oil change)
  15. Check operation of doors - squeaks should get a shot of lithium grease.
  16. Check engine for smooth idle at or below 750 RPM
  17. Check for major body items like cracks in the windshield or loose body panels
  18. Check seatbelts for proper operation (a sharp tug should stop them from advancing further out)
  19. Check under the car for any leaks (other than condensation coming from the AC)
  20. Some people check for AC operation but this is tough unless you are doing it on a pretty warm day. Opposite with the heater.

If you aren't comfortable working on your own car, then I would 100% support getting a professional to do the job. That said, if you are interested in DIY, and are looking for some tips or help, feel free to ask. 😄
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You might check with your local shops. Here in PA, places like Pep Boys and Autozone will freely take used oil for recycling. Autozone also takes used antifreeze.

For tire rotation, you can probably get away with every other oil change. The goal is to not wear down the fronts more than the rears and vice versa (for unidirectional tires). I tend to rotate my tires less frequently than suggested and haven't seen uneven tire wear.

The inspection for me is like this and usually take about 10 mins assuming nothing needs replacing:
  1. Check brake fluid levels
  2. Check radiator fluid levels
  3. Check power steering fluid
  4. Check oil level (sanity check you should do this after the oil has had some time to settle into the engine)
  5. Check windshield washer fluid
  6. Check the engine air filter for abnormal build-up
  7. Check all engine belts for proper tension (2 finger push should equal less than 1" deflection)
  8. Check cracks in the rotors or uneven wear on the pads
  9. Ensure pads have at least 2/32" wear remaining (you don't need a micrometer, if you are having trouble seeing the pads then it's time to order replacements)
  10. Check tires for nails, sidewall damage, and abnormal wear (the latter can indicate an alignment issue)
  11. Check wipers / blades for tears or abnormal wear (I know people that will change wiper blades every oil change)
  12. Check all lights / bulbs
  13. Check for dash lights (CEL, Airbag, oil, temp, etc)
  14. Check air cabin filter (recommend replacing every oil change)
  15. Check operation of doors - squeaks should get a shot of lithium grease.
  16. Check engine for smooth idle at or below 750 RPM
  17. Check for major body items like cracks in the windshield or loose body panels
  18. Check seatbelts for proper operation (a sharp tug should stop them from advancing further out)
  19. Check under the car for any leaks (other than condensation coming from the AC)
  20. Some people check for AC operation but this is tough unless you are doing it on a pretty warm day. Opposite with the heater.

If you aren't comfortable working on your own car, then I would 100% support getting a professional to do the job. That said, if you are interested in DIY, and are looking for some tips or help, feel free to ask. 😄
Thank you! AutoZone is good to know also for the snow blower and lawn mower oil 😀.
This is a great list, and while I probably will do my first service at the dealership, this are all good things to know and check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My plan is to follow what’s in the manual, which, IIRC maps to the UVO. Are others getting the service light at 5K miles? Also wondering if this is something the dealer can set.
So service reminder reset is under Setup => vehicle => Service Interval.
Mine was probably set by the dealership or Kia to 5000 miles. You can set it to whatever intervals you want with the tens and the hundreds digits set to 00 so 7500 but not 7543 (it is relevant if you want to change it after driving for a while).
If you want to be reminded at 8000 after driving 2500 miles with it set to something else, you need to set it to the remaining milage, in this example 5500. On the next service just make sure to change it to whatever you would like it to be, otherwise you might get this notifications about service due every time you turn on the car, and I can only imagine what it would do when service is overdue :unsure:
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