And it looks 10x better once the bracket is removed too. A much cleaner appearance.That doesn't sound promisingIt's crazy how tight they are. I do need to change this as it's quite painful when your body hits that bracket. We currently have a pool noodle cut to fit over it.
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This is awesome! Thank you so much for posting this. Too bad your body got in the way of the camera but you persisted and kept on recording (my favorite moment of the video).
My cameraman is a professional and I ruined it. lolThis is awesome! Thank you so much for posting this. Too bad your body got in the way of the camera but you persisted and kept on recording (my favorite moment of the video).
I performed “the procedure” on our Carnival last evening. Mission accomplished. It’s essential if you have rear-facing car seats (the children aren’t watching the screens anyway!). You really have to hit the very narrow gap between the drop in the spring clip and the square plastic accepter on the seat frame. It took me several tries to find the correct spot, but once I did it didn’t require much pressure to release the spring clips.
Observations:
![Gesture Finger Thumb Wrist Auto part]()
![Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Gas]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Bumper Bicycle part]()
Observations:
- I would not recommend simply pulling the panel off the back of the seat without releasing the spring clips with a screwdriver. Use a long, broad, flathead screwdriver as @cocobot demonstrated. The spring clips are designed to be compressed for removal, not simply pulled on forcefully. That may be why some people have broken the plastic clips—applying excessive force to physically overpower the metal spring clips and plastic clips.
- The four screws that affix the screen to the bracket (the bottom of which are visible at 2:04 in the @cocobot video) may or may not be removable for some (many?) prior to removing the seat panel. It could be a combination of the lock washer, very tight factory installation, and/or thread sealant, but I struggled to remove them on the driver side screen, and I simply could not get more than one to surrender on the passenger side. I didn’t want to deal with trying to disassemble the pivoting portion of the bracket. Even after I removed the passenger side screen I had to use a vise grip pliers to loosen the other three screws (separated from the screens for storage). I wouldn’t have been able to fit the pliers between the screen and the seat back.
- I recommend covering the wiring harness connector that remains in the seat back. I used a 1” x 1/2” section of the corner of a Ziploc bag secured with a turn of electrical tape.
- I opted to secure the wiring harness first to itself with a Velcro zip tie to keep the connector from rattling against anything and second to the larger of the two slots into which the mounting bracket rear plate affixed to the seat frame using a plastic zip tie. I masked the edges of the seat frame with electrical tape to avoid laceration of the zip tie.
- Wherever you choose to place the wiring harness be mindful of the location of everything else in the seat: the spring clips, the jackscrew, the posts for the headrest, etc. I’d put the headrest fully down when choosing where to place the harness. It seems like there’s a lot of room, but lots of other components need that space.
- If your Carnival comes with this option but you don‘t plan to use them or need the space between the seat back and a car seat, then I’d recommend telling the dealer you want them removed from the seat backs before you take delivery. You can always have them reinstalled later if you want.
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